NEW DRESSCODE FOR MEN – INTERVIEW WITH MATERIAL- & MENSWEAR EXPERT WINFRIED ROLLMANN

Menswear is undergoing a fundamental change. What does this change look like?

Time-honoured dress codes have been “invaded” by streetwear and athleisure influences for years now. Men are looking for ways to express themselves in a relaxed, up-to-date and, at the same time, smart way. In international megacities you can already see very consistent examples of this. Ingredients include Scandinavian coolness, New York dynamism and a touch of the Parisian “Upper Marais” air. The active mood remains important but sports influences no longer feature as prominently as in previous seasons. For fabrics this means high performance with a smart look.

How is the identity crisis of the traditional men’s image expressed?

In young and avantgarde fashion the gender discussion produces genderless fashion statements and a more sensitive male image. This means looser and more flowing silhouettes. For the local market this is a big challenge since the extremely figure-hugging silhouette is still considered the yardstick for modernity. Here change is imminent and it also brings lighter, more flowing fabrics.

What is the impact of changing values in society?

We see a clear development in younger generations towards a more responsible lifestyle that strives for a proper work-life balance and does not negate the challenges of climate change. This also leads to a greater awareness of sustainability. Unadulterated naturalness is high on the agenda. Low pollutant manufacturing processes, certifications and recycled plastic fibres attract increasing attention. Those not dealing with this theme miss out on the spirit of the time.

Which tasks do fabric fairs, in particular, fulfil against this backdrop?

Fabric fairs should provoke positively, challenge companies to look beyond the backyard of their bread-and-butter business. Especially in menswear there is a great backlog demand. In a visual world the way we experience things via social media means you constantly need new images and themes that also have to be backed up by strong fabrics. Here MUNICH FABRIC START boasts an excellent starting point with its extremely broad spectrum.